Saudi Arabia Clothing: A brief Historical Overview

By M.D. Kavanwal

Traditional Saudi Arabia Clothing was cut from large pieces of cloth, and in times past, was often difficult to distinguish the difference between men's and women's clothing. The difference was in the way men and women wrapped the cloth around their bodies.

Traditional Arabic dress was as varied as the country itself. Less than fifty years ago, tribal lineages were more distinct, and styles were influenced by not only a particular tribal alliance, but also because of regional variations.

Variations in Saudi Arabia clothing was a direct result from climactic differences within the region. In Saudi Arabia, the climate ranges from the hot, dry desert in the mid and eastern portions of the Kingdom, to the coastal regions, where it is not only hot, but very humid. In the southwestern portion of the country, there are mountainous regions, which have, on occasion, seen snow in the winter months.

Often the wandering tribes people, more commonly known as Bedouins, had hand sewn fabrics with intricate embroidery. Fabrics were made from cotton from northern Africa, and spun threads made from camel and goat hair.

Every item of traditional apparel was designed for protection against the relentless desert sun, whether it be for a man or a woman. Folds and layering were the unifying factors, both for insulation and to retain body moisture. (the retention of body moisture prevents dehydration related to the harsh desert conditions).

The head was always covered, and headcloths were held in place by a practical circlet made of either cloth, leather, fiber or metal, and sometimes a combination of these. Both men and women drew the headcloth about the face to protect themselves from dust and blowing sand and to shade their eyes from glare.

There was very little difference between the cut of garments worn by men and women in traditional Saudi Arabia clothing. It was usually the textile or the style in which the garment was made which indicated whether it belonged to a man or woman.

The clothing served to protect, but it was also fashioned to preserve the modesty of the man and women, as dictated by the Prophet Mohammad himself, and to curb untoward behavior.

(Modern Saudi Arabia clothing, proper covering and the Islamic Laws governing clothing is detailed in the articles):

Saudi Dress for Men

Arabic Dress for Women

In the Bedouin lifestyle, sitting cross-legged or reclining on carpets and bolsters or body pillows, is the tradition, and therefore calls for loose and unrevealing clothing. Although the head covering, the outer cloak and the bodyshirt all evolved before the dawn of Islam, Islam has preserved these ancient costumes, mostly to adhere to the rules of modesty as outlined by their religious leaders, and the Prophet Mohammad himself.

Saudi Arabia clothing used to consist of rich and colorful textiles, traditionally worn by men in Arabia until early this century. Because of the unification of many Sunni tribes through marriage or other sorts of alliances, and because of the belief that the Wahhabi tribes are the purest and most devout of Muslim men, they adapted shades of white or discreet shades of gray, blue or green.

The proportions of the Arabic dress or man's bodyshirt's cut vary in different regions of the Peninsula according to temperature and terrain. The largest garments are from the Najd, the hot central region of Arabia. They have enormously wide sleeves and deep folds to trap body moisture. The wide sleeves catch a breeze to keep cool, and the folds that trap moisture prevent dehydration.

The Saudi Arabia clothing of the women's traditional festive garment appears huge and shapeless, but in actuality, it retains all the basic pattern components, including the underarm gusset, that ensures ease of movement. The Najdi (ancient people from central and Eastern Saudi Arabia), wore a triangular segment of cloth that was fashioned from a contrasting, alternative textile, or embellished with braid, metal – thread work, sequins and embroidery.

Women living in the Sarawat Mountain range wore clothing that was almost form-fitting. (The Sarawat Mountain range is a region of highlands that extends from the southern part of the Hijaz in western Arabia, and parallels the Red Sea and goes through the 'Asir province in the southwest, extending to the peaks of the neighboring country of Yemen)

Saudi Arabia clothing worn by the Sarawat Mountain women were slimmer cut , because of the cooler climate, The unique aspect of their dress was that the sleeves were tight-fitting. In spite of the sleeves, the garment slipped easily over the head, and was full enough to be worn by a woman throughout her pregnancy.

Townswomen of lowland coastal Hijaz, living in the urban centers of Makkah, Medina and Jeddah used to wear unique Arabian costumes with exotic overtones which became the mark of their regional dress. Many gowns had sleeves so closely fitted that the lady had to be stitched into them, or sometimes cut out of them.(similar to the clothing worn by Queen Suha in the novel, Awry in Arabia, which is due to come out next year--no longer does this Queen wear the tight-sleeved abaya, but all her dresses are fashioned in her traditional tribal costume.)

Saudi Arabia clothing on the eastern regions of the Kingdom was influenced by what was worn in India, where many textiles and embroideries were traditionally custom-made for Gulf women. Sheer base cloths of many colors were richly worked in gold thread.

With the advent of trade and the introduction of international commerce, other fabrics, colors, dyes etc. were introduced, and the womenfolk created some elaborate costumes. (Some of these ancient costumes have been preserved, and are on display at museums in various parts of the world.) In times past, the attire of the Bedouins, townswomen and others was markedly different, and each and every tribe had its own design, imprint and fine detailing, depending on the region or tribal alliance.

This is not to say that the vivid colors and fine cloths are altogether obsolete. Underneath the black cloak, or abaya of today, women wear the most beautiful clothes, imported from Milan, Paris and New York.

The women will unveil themselves and parade the latest fashions when they gather for afternoon tea--when the men are safely away at prayer, and they have the luxury of being solely in the company of other women. The women must abide by the rules of modesty, and are careful to cover their bodies before venturing outside and away from the privacy of their homes.

Kings, rulers, religious leaders and men of influence within the Kingdom have, over time, influenced the styles of Saudi Arabia clothing.